Counterclockwise — RR-337 west first through the tightest section
Count the Corners
Three ranch roads, a hundred miles, and more corners than you'll keep counting before you give up and just ride.
The Twisted Sisters — Ranch Roads 335, 336, and 337 looping through the Texas Hill Country around Leakey — are the state's answer to a mountain road: tight curves, roller-coaster grades, canyon drop-offs with no guardrail, and something like sixty-five corners in one fifteen-mile run of the 337. It's a hundred-mile loop you ride purely for the riding. Do it on a weekday (weekends are a zoo) and in spring or fall (summer is genuinely brutal), and respect the three things the Hill Country will throw at you: deer — the highest density in Texas, worst at dawn and dusk — free-range cattle behind nothing but a cattle guard, and low-water crossings in flash-flood country. Turn around, don't drown; this region kills people every year.
Start at Frio Pecan Farm down on the river in Concan, the southern gateway to the loop — coffee, something out of the pecan shop, a quiet stretch by the water before the work begins. Gas up in Leakey before you climb; stations out here are sparse and not always open.
In Vanderpool stands the Lone Star Motorcycle Museum — for years the pilgrimage, sixty-plus restored bikes back to 1910, the kind of place riders planned the whole trip around. Its founder passed in 2022 and the museum closed with him. The building's still there on the 187, a quiet marker of what this ride used to gather around.
Camp Wood is the sleepy crossroads at the junction, your halfway fuel-and-tacos stop — and worth a beat of history. In 1924 a young airmail pilot named Lindbergh followed the wrong railroad up the Nueces, set down in town, and on takeoff clipped a pole straight into the local hardware store, stranding himself for days. They named a street for him.
Dinner is Mama Chole's in Leakey: homemade Tex-Mex, carne guisada, and a salsa worth the drive, the kind of small-town room where the owner's still working the floor (closed Sundays). Then sleep at Oak Hill Cabins, five quiet cabins on eight oak-shaded acres right on the 337 — full kitchens, fire pits, and no televisions on purpose. After a day of being thrown around the Sisters, the quiet is the amenity.
And hold it loosely — but on the Sisters, hold your line. The plan's a backbone, not a cage, and the Hill Country is full of reasons to abandon it: a swimming hole on the Frio, a roadside taco trailer with ten bikes out front, a ranch road that isn't on the list. Wander, sure — just keep your eyes up for deer and cattle, never ride a flooded crossing, and save the corners for daylight and a clear head. The best stop out here is the one nobody wrote down. Go find it.
