Three superbly preserved cliff dwellings on the Navajo Nation.
Photo: NPS staff · Public domain · via Wikimedia Commons
On the high plateau of northeastern Arizona, within the Navajo Nation, three of the Southwest's best-preserved Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings shelter in the alcoves of Tsegi Canyon — Betatakin, Keet Seel, and the long-closed Inscription House — built in the 1200s. Navajo National Monument is free (including its campgrounds), and how you see the dwellings is the whole story: from an easy paved overlook, on a strenuous ranger-led hike, or on a two-day ranger-led trek to Keet Seel.
Most visitors walk the easy, paved Sandal Trail to the Betatakin overlook — a large, beautifully preserved village across the canyon (bring binoculars). From Memorial Day to Labor Day, mostly on weekends, rangers lead free hikes down into the canyon for a much closer look at Betatakin; because of rockfall you view it from a safe distance rather than walking into the dwelling. Keet Seel, one of the best-preserved large cliff dwellings in the Southwest, is a 17-mile round trip run as a free ranger-led overnight trip a handful of times each spring and fall. The visitor center interprets both Ancestral Puebloan and Navajo (Diné) culture.
This is high desert at about 7,300 feet — summer afternoons that can top 95°F, July–August monsoon storms, cold snowy winters. One quirk to note: the Navajo Nation observes Daylight Saving Time, unlike the rest of Arizona, so the clock here can be an hour ahead. It's remote, with no fuel, no food and unreliable cell service, so fill up in Kayenta about 30 miles away and pair it with Monument Valley.
Navajo National Monument is a nine-mile spur off US-160 in the middle of the Navajo Nation. The driving is short, the setting is enormous, and the reason to make the detour is that it sits directly on the route between Monument Valley and the Grand Canyon — a stretch of road most people cross without stopping at all.
Nine miles north off the highway to the visitor center on the canyon rim. Paved the whole way, easy, and that's all the driving there is — the overlook trails start at the parking lot. Ignore any map app that offers Indian Route 221 from Shonto as a shortcut; that one is dirt and has stranded cars and RVs.
The main east–west route through this part of the Navajo Nation, connecting Tuba City, Kayenta and the Four Corners. Big, empty country with mesas standing out of it, and the monument is signed off it.
A short paved run to a rim with three short self-guided trails on it, the longest a bit over a mile round trip and the only one that looks across at Betatakin in its alcove opposite. There are rarely many people.
TipThe ranger-led hikes are the only way to get closer, and they're seasonal and limited — Betatakin on summer weekends, Keet Seel on a handful of spring and fall dates. The overlooks need no booking at all.
A strikingly intact Ancestral Puebloan village of about 135 rooms, built in the late 1200s and tucked into a south-facing sandstone alcove roughly 450 feet high and 370 feet wide.
Insider tipAdmire it from the Sandal Trail overlook, a quarter mile off across the canyon, or get much closer on the seasonal ranger-led hike — rockfall means nobody walks into the dwelling itself.
Plan a trip to this spot →An easy 1.3-mile paved round-trip from behind the visitor center to the canyon-rim overlook of Betatakin — how most visitors see the dwelling.
Insider tipBring binoculars; the alcove is across the canyon and looks small to the naked eye. The walk back out is a steady 150-foot climb.
Plan a trip to this spot →A free, strenuous ranger-led hike into the canyon for the closest view of Betatakin — either a 3-mile route down a steep 927-step staircase (3–4 hours) or a 5-mile route (4–5 hours), both losing and regaining 700 feet. Memorial Day to Labor Day, mostly weekends, 15 people max.
Insider tipSign the sheet at the visitor center front desk the day before or the morning of — no reservations, but only 15 places, so get your name down early on a busy weekend. Carry 2+ liters of water and real hiking shoes.
Plan a trip to this spot →One of the best-preserved large cliff dwellings in the Southwest, 8.5 miles up Tsegi Canyon — a strenuous 17-mile round trip with about 1,000 feet of descent and climb.
Insider tipIt runs as a free ranger-led overnight trip, twice each in April, May, September and October, 20 people per trip. Register online when the season opens — spots go quickly.
Plan a trip to this spot →Exhibits and dioramas interpreting both Ancestral Puebloan and Navajo (Diné) culture, with the guided-hike sign-up.
Insider tipStart here — open 9 to 5 daily except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's. It's where you sign up for guided hikes and get current trail and season status.
Plan a trip to this spot →Two more short self-guided trails — Aspen (0.8 mile, unpaved, 300 feet down to a relict stand of quaking aspen and Douglas fir, then back up) and Canyon View (0.8 mile and flat) — plus two small free first-come campgrounds. Neither trail has dwelling views.
Insider tipCanyon View Trail is the flat one and leads toward the quiet rim campground for a low-effort leg-stretch.
Plan a trip to this spot →High desert plateau at about 7,300 feet. Summer afternoons often top 95°F and the park discourages hiking between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.; July and August bring monsoon thunderstorms and flash flooding in the canyons. Spring is windy and dusty, and winter leaves snow and ice on the rim trails. Note that the rim runs cooler and snowier than the Kayenta-area numbers below.
One paved way in: AZ-564 north off US-160, on the Navajo Nation.
Nine miles up AZ-564 from US-160, about 30 miles and half an hour from Kayenta, roughly 2.5 hours from Flagstaff. There's no fee and no pass to buy; the visitor center is open 9 to 5. Fuel up before you turn off — there are no services on the spur, and cell coverage across the Nation is unreliable enough that you should follow the highway signs rather than the phone.
Two free campgrounds at the monument; lodging in Kayenta.
Two free first-come campgrounds: Sunset View (31 sites, open year-round, restrooms and seasonal water) and Canyon View (14 primitive tent sites, summer only, composting toilets, no water). No hookups, a 28-foot RV limit at both, and no open fires.
Booking tipNo lodge and no dining in the monument, and the road into Canyon View is too narrow for a big rig.
The nearest town (about 30 miles) for motels, fuel, and services — well placed near Monument Valley.
Booking tipStock up before heading out.
Is it free?
Yes — entry, the visitor center, all self-guided trails, the ranger-led Betatakin hikes, the Keet Seel trip, and both campgrounds cost nothing.
How do I actually see the cliff dwellings?
Three ways, and they're very different. The easy paved Sandal Trail reaches the Betatakin overlook year-round (binoculars help). A free ranger-led hike drops into the canyon for a much closer look at Betatakin in summer, though rockfall means you view it from a safe distance rather than entering. And Keet Seel is a 17-mile ranger-led overnight trip on a few spring and fall dates. Inscription House has been closed to the public for decades.
When can I do the guided hikes — do I need a reservation?
Betatakin: Memorial Day through Labor Day, mostly weekends, no reservation — sign the sheet at the visitor center front desk the day before or the morning of, 15 people per hike. Keet Seel: two trips each in April, May, September and October, 20 people per trip, by online registration that opens ahead of each season and fills fast. Call 928-672-2700 to confirm before you build a day around either.
What's the deal with the time zone?
The Navajo Nation observes Daylight Saving Time even though the rest of Arizona doesn't — so in summer the monument's clock is an hour ahead of off-reservation Arizona. Set your watch carefully, especially for early hike sign-ups.
How high is it — what about weather?
The visitor center sits at about 7,300 feet, so expect cool mornings, strong sun and thin air even in August, and a canyon floor several hundred feet lower and hotter. Carry at least 2 liters of water per person on the Betatakin hike and a gallon a day on Keet Seel.
How should I show respect?
You're a guest on the Navajo Nation at a site sacred to several Native peoples — stay on trails, don't touch or remove artifacts, ask before photographing people, and follow ranger and Navajo guidance.
Pick your vehicle, line up the stops on the way in and out, and carry the whole route in your pocket.
