A black badlands of lava flows, lava-tube caves, and a giant sandstone arch.
Photo: James St. John · CC BY 2.0 · via Wikimedia Commons
El Malpais — Spanish for 'the badlands' — is a rugged volcanic landscape in west-central New Mexico where black lava flows meet tan sandstone bluffs. It's a place of cinder cones, ice-filled lava-tube caves, a huge natural arch, and ancient trails worn across the jagged rock, and because it straddles two access roads that don't connect through the lava, it rewards a little planning. Best of all, it's free.
The east side, along NM-117, is the scenic-overlook side: the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook gives a sweeping view across the black sea of lava, and La Ventana Natural Arch — one of New Mexico's largest — is a short walk from the highway. The west side, along NM-53, is the lava-and-caves side, where lava-tube caving requires a free permit (and white-nose decontamination, a helmet, and three light sources), and the ancient Zuni-Acoma Trail crosses miles of broken lava marked only by cairns.
It's high desert at about 6,500 feet — warm summers (the dark lava radiates extra heat), a late-summer monsoon, and cold winters; the caves stay cold and icy year-round and close November–April for bats. The lava hiking is genuinely rough, so wear sturdy boots and carry water and a map. It's remote, so fuel up in Grants, the gateway town, and pair it with nearby El Morro and Acoma Pueblo.
A sweeping panorama from atop tan sandstone cliffs out over the black sea of lava, with Mount Taylor on the horizon.
Insider tipBest at sunset or a clear afternoon — but there are no railings, so watch the cliff edges, wind, and lightning.
Plan a trip to this spot →One of the largest accessible natural arches in New Mexico — a huge sandstone span in the cliffs, a short walk from the highway.
Insider tipQuick stop — pair it with Sandstone Bluffs on the NM-117 side; morning or late light makes the arch glow.
Plan a trip to this spot →The signature underground adventure — lava tubes with roof openings, ice formations, and moss gardens, on the lava-and-caves side.
Insider tipA free cave permit is required (visitor center), plus white-nose decontamination, a helmet, and three light sources — and confirm which caves are currently open, as the list changes.
Plan a trip to this spot →An ancient Puebloan trade route between Zuni and Acoma, crossing about 7.5 miles of jagged lava marked by rock cairns.
Insider tipRough and strenuous — wear ankle-supporting boots, carry a GPS and plenty of water, and note it's a one-way crossing unless you shuttle a car.
Plan a trip to this spot →A cinder cone you can hike, plus a lava tube and a bat cave where, on warm summer evenings, bats stream out at dusk.
Insider tipCheck current trail status before relying on it — sections have been closed for construction.
Plan a trip to this spot →The orientation hub off I-40 — maps, current cave and road conditions, and where you pick up the free cave permit.
Insider tipStop here first to get the permit and confirm what's open before heading to either side.
Plan a trip to this spot →High desert at ~6,500 feet: warm, dry summers (the dark lava radiates extra heat, so the flows feel far hotter than the air), cold winters with occasional snow, and a late-summer monsoon (July–August) that brings the heaviest rain. The caves stay cold and icy year-round — and close November–April to protect hibernating bats. Spring and fall are the comfortable seasons.
Two access roads that don't connect through the lava — start at the visitor center.
Via I-40 Exit 89 — the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, La Ventana Arch, and the Zuni-Acoma east trailhead. The scenic-overlook side.
Via I-40 Exit 81 — El Calderon, the lava-tube caves, and the Big Tubes area. The two sides don't connect through the monument, so pick a side per day. Free; remote — bring water and fuel.
No developed campground inside — backcountry only; nearby free campgrounds and Grants.
Joe Skeen Campground (BLM, on NM-117) and the campground at neighboring El Morro (NPS, on NM-53) are free, first-come — the most convenient established options.
Booking tipBackcountry camping is allowed in the monument (no permit), but the jagged lava makes it tough.
The gateway town with motels, fuel, food, and private campgrounds — the practical base for visiting both sides.
Booking tipStock up here; there are no services inside the monument.
Is it free?
Yes — no entrance fee and no pass required. Cave permits are also free.
Do I need a permit to go caving, and what gear?
Yes — a free cave permit from the visitor center, plus white-nose-syndrome screening (gear must be new to caving or properly decontaminated), a helmet, three independent light sources per person, gloves, and sturdy boots. Confirm which caves are currently open.
What's the difference between the two roads?
NM-117 (east) is the sandstone side — the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook and La Ventana Arch. NM-53 (west) is the lava side — cinder cones and the lava-tube caves. They don't connect through the monument, so pick a side per day or budget the long drive around.
How rough is the lava hiking?
Very — trails like the Zuni-Acoma and the Big Tubes cross sharp, uneven lava. Wear ankle-supporting boots, follow the rock cairns, and carry a GPS or map; it's easy to lose the route.
When should I go?
Spring and fall are most comfortable, and the caves are open. Summer is hot (the lava radiates heat) with monsoon storms; winter is cold with possible snow and the caves closed for bats (November–April).
How remote is it?
Remote, with no in-park services. Carry plenty of water, fill the tank in Grants, don't count on cell signal, and check road conditions for any backcountry or dirt routes before heading out.
Pick your vehicle, line up the stops on the way in and out, and carry the whole route in your pocket.
